Learning the Basic Strategies of Blackjack | How to play 21

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Learning the Basic Strategies of Blackjack by NoLuckNeeded.com member Holly (rae)

Blackjack (or “21") is one of the most popular casino games for a variety of reasons. Its easy to learn, easy to play, and even with a basic skill level the game offers a fast-paced, fairly even playing field for the beginner and experienced card player alike. Unlike other games of chance such as roulette, slots, and keno, in comparison, blackjack gives the player unusually high odds of walking away a winner.

For the beginner, playing the “shoe” of 6 or 8 decks gives relatively good odds since all the players cards are dealt face up giving each player a slight advantage. Once you hone your skill, fewer decks against the dealer lies a greater potential for financial gain. Card-counting techniques are beneficial with less decks just as adding decks is in the house’ favor.

The rules of the game are simple. Beat the dealers hand, without going over 21, and you win. Cards are added by face value. Face cards are 10 and the ace can be calculated as a one or an eleven. A 10 (or face card) plus the ace makes for the best hand possible. If the dealer and the player tie (or “push”) the hand is over no matter the value. Suite plays no role in the outcome.

Discipline plays a vital role. Without it, all strategies become worthless. Knowing how much to wager, when to raise, double, split or quit is as equally important.

Satisfied that all the bets have been made, the dealer will deal the cards to the players. He/she will make two passes around the table starting with the player at his far left and proceeding in turn to the player as his far right; so that the players and the dealer have two cards each. The dealer will flip one of his cards over and is seen by all the players. This card is known as the upcard and its value is importance in the determination of what strategy should be used in playing out the player's hand.

If the player is not satisfied with the first two cards, he may ask for an additional card, or as many as he likes until he "stands" (is finished). If the player takes too many cards and exceeds 21, it's an automatic "bust," and the player immediately loses. In this case, when you bust, the dealer will remove your cards and the wager for you.

The dealer stands on all 17s": This is the most common rule. In this case, the dealer must continue to take cards ("hit") until his total is 17 or greater. An Ace in the dealer's hand is always counted as 11 if possible without the dealer going over 21. For example, (Ace,9) would be 20 and the dealer would stop drawing cards ("stand"). Also, (Ace,6) is 17 and again the dealer will stand. (Ace,5) is only 16, so the dealer would/must hit. He will continue to draw cards until the hand's value is 17 or more. For example, (Ace,5,9) is only 15 so he/she hits again. (Ace,5,7,6) makes 19 so he/she would stop ("stand") at that point.

Again, the dealer has no discretions to make in the play of his hand. He/she cannot split pairs, but must instead simply hit until he/she reaches at least 17 or busts by going over 21.

If you don't like your first two cards, you "surrender" the hand and lose only one-half of your bet. To enforce surrender, simply state "surrender" to the dealer who will remove half your bet and you are out of the woods. So long as the dealer does not have a blackjack you are allowed to surrender. If you have a 15 or 16, against the dealer's 10, it is generally recommended that you exercise the surrender option. **Some casinos/tables may not have the surrender option. Ask the dealer before play begins.

Among the more profitable player options is the choice to "double down" on your first two cards by making an additional bet up to the amount of your original wager and receive only one card from the dealer. You will only get one hit.

Obviously a good doubling opportunity is when you have a hand-total of 10 or 11 and the dealer's up-card is 6 or less. In this case, you have a good chance of winning the hand by drawing one additional card, so you might as well increase your bet in this ideal situation.

Another important option for the player is to "split" a matching pair of cards in your original hand, such as a pair of 8's. An identical pair of 8's or sixteen is the worst possible player hand, since it is unlikely to win as is, but is very likely to bust if you draw to it. Here's a great chance to improve a bad situation. Let's say you draw a 3 on the first 8, for a total of 11. Many casinos will allow you to double down on that hand total of 11 at this point. When this is allowed, the rule is called "Double after Split". Regardless, you can play the first hand to completion, at which point the dealer will deal a second card to the second hand, and you can begin making play decisions on it.

If additional pairs are drawn off of the original split, most casinos will allow another split. Only one additional card is allowed with that type of scenario and the hand cannot be doubled. If aces are split and another ace is drawn, the casino may allow for yet another split. Splitting aces is always considered to the players advantage. In addition, it may not be wise to split 2's through 6's. Common splits are aces and 8's, never 5's, and never face cards or 10's. Overall, the odds of these basic “splitting” strategies will pay off.

Insurance is the least understood of all the rules for Blackjack. Ordinarily insurance is a bad bet. The player receives only 2 to 1 on a 9 to 4 proposition. Yet sometimes, it can be quite beneficial once you know what buying insurance really means. The only time you can buy insurance is when the dealer's upcard is an Ace. In that case the dealer will ask all the players whether they want to buy insurance.

In the simplest description, Insurance is a side-bet, where you are offered 2:1 odds that the dealer has a 10-valued card underneath ("in the hole"). A quick check of the odds yields this: In a single deck game, there are 16 ten-valued cards. Assuming that you don't see any other cards, including your own, the tens compose 16 out of 51 remaining cards after the dealer's Ace was removed. For the insurance bet to be a break-even bet, the hole card would have to be a ten 1 out of 3 times, but 16/51 is only 1 in 3.1875.

A hard hand is one that does not contain an Ace - or if it does, the total is such that the Ace must be counted as 1 (counting it 11 would give a total higher than 21).

If your cards total 17, 18, 19, or 20, it is a "pat" hand. Although 17 and 18 may be good enough to stand on, they certainly won't get all the "goodies" all the time. 19's and 20's and Blackjack's are the real "jewels" you are looking for. A hand of hard 17 or higher, must not be hit. Any chance of improvement is more than offset by the danger of breaking.

Any hard hand of less than 12 must be hit. It cannot bust. And it cannot win unless the dealer busts. A card should always be drawn to such a hand in an effort to improve it.

Thus the only decisions that present any problem involve hands of 12 through to 16. When they are hit, the danger of busting exists. But if they are not hit, they cannot win unless the dealer busts. Remember, the dealer never stands unless he has a total of at least 17.

Hands that give you 12, 13, 14, 15, or 16, are known as "stiffs." If your hand is 15 or 16, you have got one of the two worst hands possible, and especially tough if the dealer's upcard is a 7 or higher. The rules for hitting a stiff simple:
a) If the dealer's upcard is high (7, 8, 9, 10, or Ace), a stiff should be hit.
b) If the dealer's upcard is low (2 through 6), a stiff should not be hit - with this exception - hit 12 if the dealer shows a 2 or 3.

This is the main body of basic blackjack strategy. The validity of this strategy has been confirmed repeatedly by mathematical calculations . Simple reasoning helps to understand the good sense of the strategy. If the dealer has a 7 or higher card, his chance of busting is relatively small. There is a strong chance that he has a high card in the hole. In this case his hand is already made, and he will not have to draw. We should therefor take the risk of breaking and draw to a stiff, hoping to beat the dealer's hand.

If the dealer holds a 6 or lower card, he will have to draw. The player's chances of winning are better if he lets the dealer hit his probable stiff than if the player hits his own stiff. In other words let the dealer be the first to break/bust.

There are Basic Blackjack Strategy Charts available online to memorize. Having confidence is yourself and making quick judgements are essential and leaves no room for pondering. There is a lot to be said for “feeling lucky” by hitting on a hand that is probable to bust or splitting face cards if the dealer has a 6 showing and blowing that sure win. Sticking to the fundamentals - overall - will give the player an advantage because basic strategy makes the game about even in the long run.

Remembering that odds vary, yours decisions on hitting, standing, doubling-down, buying insurance, and altering your wager will constantly change. The thing that will get you through any fluctuation in the probability of winning are discipline and proper money management.
Finally, in terms of knowing when to increase your wager and when to stop, the general rule is: when winning, keep adjusting your bet upward. When you do finally hit that losing streak, walk away from the table. This will give you time to clear your head and cut your losses.
Just make sure you learn the basic blackjack strategy before walking up to that table.

Enjoy the game of Blackjack.